![]() ![]() STEP 3: You'll need to be good at soldering here - The Flirc SE comes with some cords that help with installation. STEP 2: Epoxy the standoff in the box so that the Flirc elements are in the window and you can get at the header connectors after assembly. In addition you'll need the Flirc, a couple of 10 foot USB cables, an external power bracket, and some odds and ends including some colored acetate for the window, Epoxy, and a small standoff/other means of holding the circuit board in place. ![]() Pick a box which has a good size window for the IR receiver/transmitter elements in the Flirc. STEP 1: I stripped the old Toshiba power supply keeping only the box. So with the Flirc SE, an old power supply box, a couple of 10 ft USB 2.0 cables (Type A Male to anything else), and an external power bracket, I was able to build something that fit my needs. It is a simple circuit board with the IR receiver elements on it and a couple of header connectors - AND IT HAS THE ABILITY TO ACTIVATE THE PC POWER SYSTEM. This is a version of the Flirc made for Streacom Cases. I still wanted to use a Flirc, but I needed a receiver that could be placed away from the system outside the cabinet.Įnter the Flirc SE ( ). In addition, the USB dongle Flirc offers did not have the ability to turn the system on and off via the IR remote from the S5 state, which meant that I STILL HAD to open the door to turn the unit on. Even the BEST remotes I could find were only 85% reliable through it. As you know, IR equipment does not like to work through glass. This setup can be kind of noisy and collect a lot of dust, so I have it in a cooled entertainment center cabinet behind glass - and therein lies the problem. I've lost a lot of equipment in the past by letting it overheat, and that has been painful. I do this because I have 12 TB of storage for all my movies, songs and what not. It is nothing special except that it has a very porous case with lots of cooling. My system is custom built like most enthusiasts. If you proceed to follow these directions - you do so at your own risk, I CAN IN NO WAY BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RESULTS OR OUTCOME OF THIS PROJECT. I thought I would share the hurdles I had in setting up a unit the way I wanted it to run, and how I got around them.Ī couple words of warning - this is a little DIY. This means that the smarts are where they belong - in the PC. The best thing I like about the Flirc is that the HTPC is programmed to the remote's output, and not vice-versa like "universal remotes" are set up. I discovered this amazing product about a month ago. ![]()
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